Nail allergy: causes and how to prevent it

In the world of professional nail care, knowledge is just as important as artistry. While the beauty we create is meant to empower and uplift our clients, it’s crucial that we also prioritize health and safety. One of the growing concerns in the nail industry is the development of acrylate allergies, especially allergies linked to HEMA—short for hydroxyethyl methacrylate. As nail technicians, understanding how these allergies develop, recognizing the early symptoms, and learning how to prevent them can make all the difference in protecting both our clients and ourselves.

What is HEMA and why is used 

HEMA is a common ingredient in many artificial nail products, particularly in gel and acrylic systems. Its primary function is to help these products adhere to the natural nail, creating a strong and flexible bond. In its raw form, HEMA is a monomer—a single, small molecule. When the product is cured under a UV or LED lamp, these monomers chemically bond together, forming a chain of larger molecules called polymers. Once cured into polymers, the product becomes solid, safe, and stable.

However, the monomer form of HEMA is much more reactive. Because of its small molecular size, it can penetrate the skin if it comes into contact with it. If this exposure happens repeatedly, the body may begin to recognize HEMA as a harmful substance, triggering an immune response that leads to a contact allergy. Once someone has developed a HEMA allergy, it is usually permanent.

But... the key difference between a safe product and a risky one lies not in the ingredients themselves, but in how those ingredients are used. Fully cured products, where monomers have become polymers, are generally safe and do not pose an allergy risk. But when monomers are allowed to contact the skin or are left uncured due to improper application, they can begin the sensitization process that leads to allergic reactions.

How do acrylate reactions develop

Acrylate allergies often develop slowly, over time. The most common way monomers enter the skin is through direct contact during application. This happens when the product touches the surrounding skin, particularly around the cuticle area. Even a small, repeated amount of product in the same area can be enough to sensitize the skin over time. Improper technique, rushing, or lack of experience can all increase the chances of this happening.

Another major cause of allergy development is incomplete curing. If the lamp used is not compatible with the product, or if it’s old and no longer emitting the proper light strength, the product may not fully cure. This means monomers remain active on the nail surface and can still penetrate the skin. It’s also important to remember that curing times differ from product to product. Always follow the specific instructions given by the manufacturer, as applying a "one size fits all" curing approach can lead to an undercured product and a higher risk.

Additionally, we often see increased allergy risks in cases where the natural nail is over-filed. When technicians thin the nail plate too much—either by aggressive filing or improper removal of previous products—they weaken the barrier that protects the sensitive nail bed and surrounding skin. With this protective layer compromised, it becomes easier for monomers to enter the body and trigger an allergic response.

Even clients themselves may unknowingly create risk when they peel or pick off their gelpolish or enhancements. This often removes several layers of the natural nail, making the nail bed more vulnerable during future applications.

Recognizing the early symptoms of an acrylate allergy

It’s essential that both nail technicians and clients learn to recognize the early warning signs of an acrylate allergy. This type of allergy is known as a contact allergy, which means the symptoms appear specifically where the skin comes into contact with the allergen.

Usually, the first signs include redness, itchiness, or a rash around the cuticle area. In more severe cases, clients may experience burning, swelling, blisters, or peeling skin. These symptoms typically develop within 24 to 48 hours of exposure to the offending product, though in some cases, it may take repeated exposure for symptoms to appear.

What makes this particularly tricky is that allergic reactions often become progressively worse with each exposure. A client may use a product for months or even years without an issue, and then suddenly develop a severe reaction. Once this happens, the allergy is generally permanent. In many cases, a client who is allergic to HEMA will also be sensitive to other acrylates, which makes product selection and application technique even more critical.

What to do if a reaction occurs

If you or a client begins to show signs of a reaction, the most important step is to immediately stop using the product. Remove any artificial nails gently and avoid using any other potentially reactive products. It’s important to never attempt to treat or diagnose the allergy yourself—this is a job for a medical professional. Refer the client to a doctor or dermatologist who can conduct proper allergy testing.

Once a diagnosis is confirmed, you can work together to explore safer alternatives. In some cases, other products may be suitable. However, because of the chemical similarities between different acrylates, even HEMA-free products can cause reactions in those who have developed a strong sensitivity. When in doubt, always test new products on a single nail and monitor for any reaction before proceeding with a full application.

Preventing allergies through professional practice

Prevention is always better than a cure—especially with something as serious and irreversible as a chemical allergy. Fortunately, by committing to safe and educated practices, we can dramatically reduce the risk of developing or triggering an allergy.

One of the most important principles is to avoid direct contact between the product and the skin. This means applying with precision, working neatly, and being careful not to flood the cuticle or sidewalls. 

Proper curing is another cornerstone of allergy prevention. Each product line is formulated to work with specific light wavelengths and curing times. Always use a lamp that is approved by the product’s manufacturer, and make sure the lamp is clean and functioning at full strength. A dull top coat or lingering stickiness may be signs that your lamp isn’t curing properly and should be checked or replaced.

Protecting the natural nail is equally vital. Never over-file or thin the nail unnecessarily. The natural nail acts as a barrier between the product and the sensitive tissue underneath. Damaging this barrier creates an open pathway for monomers to reach the skin. If a client’s nails are already thin, red, or damaged, it’s best to pause services and allow time for recovery—preferably using nourishing products like cuticle oils and nail strengtheners.

Hygiene is another layer of protection. Wear nitrile gloves (as vinyl or latex not provide adequate protection), use a high-quality dust extractor while filing, and keep all tools and lamps meticulously clean. Avoid cross-contamination by wiping down surfaces and equipment after each client, and always dispose of used materials properly.

Finally, it’s essential to understand what you're working with. Only use products that are EU-compliant or approved in your country. Some imported products may contain high levels of HEMA or aggressive primers that are harmful to both nails and health. Read labels carefully, follow instructions to the letter, and never skip safety steps—no matter how experienced you are.

Are HEMA-free products the answer?

HEMA-free products are promised to be for clients who have sensitivities or for salons wanting to offer a safer alternative. These products often contain acrylate copolymers—larger molecules that are less likely to penetrate the skin. However, it’s important to remember that "HEMA-free" does not mean "risk-free." Other allergens may still be present; HEMA is often replaced with unregulated ingredients at high levels, and the same care must be taken with application, curing, and hygiene.

When working with a client who has a known allergy, it’s always wise to perform a patch test or apply the product to a single nail first. If there is no reaction after a few days, you can cautiously proceed. Still, it’s important to manage expectations and remain prepared to adjust or stop if any symptoms arise.

As a salon, switching entirely to HEMA-free products is not mandatory unless you choose to specialize in hypoallergenic services. Products that contain HEMA are not inherently dangerous when used correctly. What matters most is how you use them.

Communicating with clients about safety

Clients today are more informed than ever, and many will ask questions about the safety of the products used on their nails. This is a wonderful opportunity to build trust and educate them about your professional standards.

You can confidently reassure your clients that gelpolish and other artificial nail products are safe when applied properly, using professional techniques and quality tools. HEMA has been used in nail technology for years, and most reactions reported today are linked to improper use, often by individuals applying products at home without training or understanding of the risks.

If your client remains concerned -  your training, precision, and care are what make the biggest difference in their safety.

Raising standards together

As nail technicians, we have a powerful role in protecting the health of those who sit at our table. That responsibility begins with proper education and continues through every appointment, every product choice, and every stroke of the brush.

By understanding how allergies develop and following best practices, we help prevent avoidable harm and uphold the integrity of our industry. We also keep ourselves safe—because our hands, lungs, and well-being matter too.

So take the time to learn, to ask questions, and to teach others. Stay current. Stay careful. And above all, stay proud of the work you do, not just for its beauty, but for its care.

Disclaimer: This article is intended for educational purposes and does not constitute medical advice. Always refer clients to a licensed medical professional for diagnosis or treatment of any allergy or health concern.